The Spritz List: January
From new releases to rediscovered classics, here are a few fragrant highlights that are intriguing me this month
Iris Padilla by MarieJeanne
Waking up every morning to see the roofs of neighbouring houses dusted with frost has got me seeking our soft, sensuous scents that help me brave a cold commute. Iris Padilla by Grasse-based perfume house MarieJeanne is just such a fragrance. An opening of powerdry iris is accompanied by an enveloping double-hit of bitter hazelnut and slinky cashmeran, before drying down into a casual, fresh ‘n’ floral mix of rose and iris butter, underpinned by sandalwood, ambroxan and musk. Sometimes an iris scent has distinct granny overtones, but here it adds a wonderfully “old money” edge to this cool-yet-comforting juice.
Iris Padilla eau de parfum by MarieJeanne, €180 for 100ml. mariejeanne.fr
Vanille Leather by BDK
It’s quite hard to communicate how delicate and delicious this fragrance is, especially when I describe the big opening note. It’s leather, as the name suggests, but unlike many leather fragrances that err on the side of a university library or well-used Chesterfield, this is a cleaner, more fresh version of leather – a bit like freshly polished loafers. This is accompanied by a note of vanilla, with the leather and pink peppercorn bringing a wonderful lightness to the initial creaminess. As it develops on the skin, the steely orris root shines through, with a little woodiness from oak and the refreshing presence of white flowers. A rare crisp gourmand, not at all cloying or saccharine.
Vanille Leather eau de Parfum by BDK, £184.10 for 100ml. bdkparfums.com
Poivre 23 by Le Labo
Just before Christmas I was meandering through John Lewis’ perfume hall on Oxford Street and found myself in the Le Labo concession (always a pleasure never a chore etc.). When I’m in a Le Labo, I find it very hard not to have a spray of Poivre 23 – the house’s “City Exclusive” scent for London. Maybe it was the heat of the room pulsing with festive shoppers, but this cool-spicy scent was just the tonic. The big first impression is almost singularly bitter, crisp, bracing cracked black pepper, which warms as it dries thanks to dry, resinous styrax, and rich hints of incense and vanilla. Sophisticated and slightly metallic, it’s a superb, cool evening scent.
Only available in Le Labo’s London stores and concessions, lelabofragrances.com
Avalon by Murdock
I have recently been reacquainting myself with the colognes from London-based barbershop Murdock. While the subtly spicy Black Tea is the one that will forever remind me of my first few chops at the brand’s Covent Garden outpost (which opened while I was working at GQ), Avalon is a real gem of the line. Ripe with juicy, zingy bergamot and lemon, spliced with herbaceous rosemary, lavender and neroli and a finishing base of grounding, powdery musk, it is a quintessential fresh, clean, gentlemanly barbershop scent that brings some southern italian sun even if it’s grey outside.
Avalon eau de cologne by Murdock, £74.45 (currently on sale from £90) for 100ml. murdocklondon.com